I thought I knew Wisconsin pretty well, but it still has a few secrets. More than 200 of them, in fact, in the form of a classic throwback of a dining experience called the Wisconsin Supper Club. For the uninitiated, a definition: A Wisconsin supper club, loosely defined, is a family owned restaurant offering fine dining in the most traditional sense. Most share similar menus focused on steak and seafood, enormous portions, and multiple courses. Many clubs are located on the outskirts of towns, away from the highways with its chain restaurants and big box retailers that tend to make every stretch of highway look the same. They are often found in a wooded area, along the shore of one of Wisconsin’s many picturesque lakes. They are, in fact, a destination and an experience of a simpler time when dining out meant a whole evening of classic cocktails, real food, and great company.
The notion of a supper club may not be unique to Wisconsin, but the supper club as a part of a region’s cultural landscape certainly is. Their history goes back to the early 20th century; many have been owned and operated by the same family for generations. The prohibition era challenged fine dining establishments to create and experience worth an evening out with great food and entertainment and Wisconsin Supper Clubs rose to the challenge. During this time one of the mainstays of the supper club experience first appeared – the Friday night fish fry – developed to attract the region’s Catholics and their large families to enjoy a night out while staying faithful to their religious tenets. Supper clubs enjoyed a heyday in the 1950s and 60s when the state boasted hundreds of these establishments. Today, scores of clubs have closed their doors, but the ones that remain have not changed much since their peak in the min-20th century.
Why Go? Simple. The traditional supper club is like an experience in time travel. Set your expectation for an era without e-mail, social media or cable news when people lingered over conversation and cocktails. Don’t be tripped up by the name. It’s called a club, but there is no membership. Ron Faiola, author of Wisconsin Supper Clubs, An Old Fashioned Experience may be the nation’s leading expert on the subject. According to Faiola, Wisconsin Supper Clubs welcome everyone, but they do count on their regulars. “The regulars are like family. They often come to the restaurant weekly, sometimes twice, Wednesday and Saturday for example. They sit at the same table each night and the bartender will have their favorite drink waiting when they come in. In fact, I’ve heard of cases where, if a regular doesn’t come when expected, the owner might call his home to check on him.” OK, that sounds a little bit like a private club, but without the fees and exclusivity.
The décor of each club differs but a few elements are consistent. “The three staples of supper club décor are wood paneling, twinkle lights (year-round), and taxidermy,” said Faiola. Oh Wisconsin. I love ya. The holiday season is the perfect time to visit when the warm interior wards off the seasonal chill and the effects of gluttony can be hidden under a cozy sweater – preferably one with a reindeer motif.
The experience begins with a drink at the bar served by an old-school professional bartender. Martinis and manhattans are classic, but for tradition’s sake, the drink of choice is a Brandy Old Fashioned served sweet. This unofficial-official drink of Wisconsin is a blend of brandy, bitters, simple syrup or sugar, and soda garnished with fruit. Don’t expect a fancy glass. While enjoying your drink, a waitress will take your dinner order and when your food is nearly ready, you’ll be shown to a table where you’ll tuck in for a timeless dining experience.
At the table, you can expect to be served the traditional relish tray. Each establishment has its own version which might include vegetables, cole slaw, pickles, cheese spreads, or pasta salad presented on a serving tray that could have been swiped from my grandmother’s sideboard. Supper clubs specialize in dry-aged stakes served in lumberjack-sized portions, broiled or fried seafood, and the usual trimmings of potatoes and vegetables. Do yourself a favor and save room for dessert – not so much dessert as booze-soaked ice cream – because Wisconsin supper clubs specialize in after-dinner cocktails like the Grasshopper and the Pink Squirrel that will blow your mind. Do not attempt to make these at home. Let the pros handle it. Trust me.)
Where to begin? I asked Faiola to recommend a few favorites for those of us who are new to the supper club experience. It wasn’t easy, but based on my request for clubs with a wooded location and a lake view, Ron offered this list as a starting point.
The Buckhorn Supper Club located in Milton on the shores of Lake Koshkonong has been in business for more than 80 years. Currently owned and operated by the Pope family, The Buckhorn is known for its lakeside lobster boils in the summer months.
The Pinewood Supper Club, is owned and operated by Joan and Steve Allen and located in central Wisconsin on the shores Half Moon Lake in Mosinee. Steaks are hand-cut on-site and all entrees sauces and dressings are made in-house.
The High Shores Supper Club sits on a bluff overlooking Lake Wissota, a view that it shares with the Chippewa Falls home of legendary Wisconsin brewmaster, Jacob Leinenkugel. In addition to traditional steaks and seafood, guests may sample fried alligator or enjoy a champagne cruise on the lake.
Silver Birch, Tomahawk has been called Tomahawk’s worst-kept secret despite its minimal web presence. The Silver Birch enjoys a spectacular view of Halfmoon Lake from the outdoor patio where guests enjoy drinks while waiting for a table. Weekend fish frys are always well attended.
Copper Dock, Hubertus is located on the shores of Friess Lake where the setting sun casts a copper-like glow on the water. All-you-can-eat prime rib is offered on Saturdays and, if you still have an appetite, come back on Sunday for brunch.
Learn More
The definitive source on this subject is Ron Faiola’s excellent book Wisconsin Supper Clubs, An Old Fashioned Experience (Agate Press). Find the book and companion documentary video online. If that’s not enough, Ron released a follow-up, Wisconsin Supper Clubs: Another Round.
This website provides links and locations for more than 300 Wisconsin Supper Clubs. Find one nearby and satisfy your curiosity. Not all locations have websites or social media links so you may have to go old school and call for reservations. Did you know your smartphone can also make phone calls?
To learn more about the fascinating history of the Wisconsin Old Fashioned you must read this excellent article.
Asked what the future may hold for these classic establishments, Ron mentioned that many clubs are beginning to adapt to a new generation while holding fast to their authenticity. “Some clubs have begun to add TV in the bar area, but ONLY in the bar, to show sports and attract a younger clientele. Others have started to open for lunch. A few that closed during the recent recession have re-opened under new ownership.” Faiola has also seen a surge in popularity in recent years that he attributes to a nostalgic yearning for a simpler time with real food and cocktails. Perhaps we may thank a certain Don Draper for this.
Whatever your motivation, work up an appetite and join me on a quest for local adventure, timeless regional cuisine, and a truly old-fashioned experience.
This article appeared in Lakeshore Magazine. Subscribe HERE.
