Winter in the Midwest can be beautiful under a blanket of fresh snow … but to be brutally honest, we just sometimes need a break from the Polar Vortex. When thoughts turn to warm, gin-clear waters, white sand beaches, and coconutty rum drinks, there’s no better destination than the British Virgin Islands (BVI) where a week island hopping by way of a chartered sailboat is the perfect antidote for the raw, gray cold back home.
Several years ago, my husband, an avid sailor and adventure travel enthusiast, convinced me to dip my toes in the aquamarine water that was our first BVI bareboat (meaning we were captain and crew) cruise. Five BVI trips and a lot of rum drinks later, we are seasoned cruisers and have enjoyed the trip by ourselves, with other couples, with our two kids, and with a small flotilla of friends and their families. We’ve become unofficial ambassadors for this particular adventure. If you’ve never considered it, read on, because it is about as far away from winter in the Midwest as you can get without speaking Tahitian.
Editor’s Note: The BVI was devastated by Hurricane Irma in 2017, but many of the locations featured here are gradually reopening.
The BVI and Tortola
The British Virgin Islands are a cluster of more than 50 sparsely populated Caribbean islands located a short distance from Puerto Rico. Thanks to near perfect weather, gentle tradewinds, white sand beaches and easy line-of-site navigation, the BVI is known as a sailor’s paradise. Your adventure begins and ends on Tortola, the BVI’s largest and most populated island. The capitol city of Road Town is a colorful Caribbean town where traditional island culture (Reggae music and chickens in the street) mixes with the Yacht-Clubs-Gone-Wild anticipation of groups of vacationing sailors gearing up for a week’s adventure at sea. The waterfront is abuzz with charter boat operators, marina facilities, and provisioning stores. The whole place smells of jerk-chicken, rum and spices. This is where you’ll meet your boat and your skipper if you choose to hire one then shove off for a week (or two). While cruising you’ll want to explore Tortola’s many attractive anchorages and beach communities. Here are a few favorites.
This stretch of unblemished white sand beach on Tortola’s north shore is a perfect destination for a full afternoon and evening on shore. The protected waters are ideal for swimming and windsurfing and you can rent kayaks and wind surfing equipment on the beach. Provisions are available at a small, but well-stocked grocery store in town. In the evening, the beachfront is alive with music and the smell of fried plantains, grilled seafood and the sound of chirping frogs.
Marina Cay
It might be easy to miss this tiny island, but don’t. This postcard-perfect spot has a wide beach and warm, shallow waters ideal for spotting sting rays and sea turtles. The famous Pusser’s Grille opens onto the beach and serves plenty of cocktail featuring the BVI’s own Pusser’s Single Malt Rum. Hermit crabs of all sizes scurry over the rocks and sand to our kids’ delight. After dinner, take a walk up to the island’s peak for 360 degree views of the emerald waters and the nearby islands. For a preview, check out the webcam at the top of the hill.
Virgin Gorda
The name means “Fat Virgin” in Spanish and it’s important to understand that “Gorda” is considered a compliment in some Spanish-speaking cultures. Alright then. The island was named by early explorers who believed it looked like a large woman lying on her side. You can kinda see it at the right angle, but only if you really want it. My daughter said, “I guess I can see a lady, but how’d they know she was a virgin?” One wonders..
The Baths
The mysterious Baths at the southwestern tip of Virgin Gorda is a group of huge granite boulders that are oddly out of place in the area. Created by ancient molten lava, the rocks form caverns and secret pools to explore both above and below the surface. Steps and rope handrails follow a trail through the boulders from the main landing point to the hidden beach at Devil’s Bay.
This area is part of the BVI National Park Service and a limited number of day-use national park moorings are available. This is a popular anchorage so plan to arrive early before the moorings are all taken. Learn more here.
A short hike up the hill from the beach you’ll find the Top of the Baths), an outdoor café where you can enjoy drinks and the BVI’s best conch fritters (in my opinion) with a sweeping view. While you wait, take a cooling dip in the pool or browse through the boutiques.
North Sound
A few hours sail along the Virgin Gorda coast to the north you’ll find my favorite BVI destination: The North Sound.
The Bitter End Yacht Club
This place is exactly what you need after a few days at sea. It’s the pinnacle of civility and understated island luxury. Sigh. It’s perfection. The Clubhouse is a gorgeous, open-air dining room featuring steaks, seafood, and generous buffets for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The room is adorned with hundreds of burgees from yacht clubs from all over the world and the bar is crafted from the wreck of the sailing ship Ondine. Cocktails are served all day and throughout the evening at the Terrace Bar where you’ll enjoy a stunning view of the beach and yachts gently bobbing in the sound. When traveling with kids, we pick The Crawl Pub for a more casual pub fare and legitimately outstanding brick-oven pizzas. Pool tables, games, and sports on large TVs will occupy those members of your party who may decide to forgo the DJ dance party just outside. That’s where I’ll be, especially when DJ Smasher pulls out his 80’s mash-up.
The Bitter End offers well-appointed showers and a market with provisions to restock before you sail on. But before you leave the North Sound, be sure to visit our favorite spot: Saba Rock.
Saba Rock
Appropriately named because it’s little more that a large rock in the channel between The Bitter End and Prickly Pear Island, it would be easy to miss Saba Rock, but trust me, you need to visit. It’s hard to believe the amount of fun packed into this dreamy little island. Tie up at the dinghy dock or radio the friendly Saba Rock launch that will happily pick you up at locations throughout the North Sound.
At 5 PM each afternoon, along with thirsty sailors, several giant tarpon fish and an occasional hungry barracuda area drawn to Saba for Happy Hour. The Saba staff feed the fish in a most theatrical way for the rapt entertainment of their happy hour guests. Oh, and drinks are two-for-one between 4 and 6 pm making anything more entertaining, right? Afterward, head to the hammocks around the back of the hotel to recharge while you wait for a table in the dining room. You’ll want to stay forever.
If you can convince your captain to stay longer, other North Sound locations worth a visit include The Fat Virgin Café where authentic West Indian fare is made fresh daily. The chicken roti, conch fritters, and burgers are favorites. You may even spot a famous local here. Sir Richard Branson who owns nearby Necker Island…the whole island…has been known to drop by on occasion.
At the south end of the sound is Leverick Bay where colorful shops are set amid the restaurants and café and the whole area seems to be covered in fuchsia bougainvillea.
Jost Van Dyke
Jost Van Dyke is flawless. This remote Caribbean island has some of the most stunning beaches and views in all of the BVI. Start in Diamond Cay and plan to stay for awhile.
Diamond Cay
One of Jost’s three harbors…or harbours as the British call them…offers a full day and evening of adventure. Start by swimming and snorkeling around Sandy Spit, a tiny speck of an island off the cost of Green Cay and Little Jost Van Dyke that looks like something straight out of Spongebob Squarepants. (We travel with kids who notice such things.) Then pick up a mooring in the harbor and go ashore for a short hike to the storied Bubbly Pool, a natural spa of sorts among the rock formations that fills with swirling, foamy sea water as the waves crash along the north shore. You’ll want to stay for hours, so be sure to bring some cocktails along.
Your happy hour destination is the newish B-Line Bar on the Little Jost Van Dyke beach. Try their signature drink, Passion Confusion, while you enjoy a game of bags or the BVI’s classic ring game.
Dinner is waiting at Foxy’s Taboo, a small but particularly good open-air restaurant featuring a unique take on the local specialties. Be sure to make a reservation early in the day because, as you’ll quickly see, it’s the only option in this anchorage.
White Bay
Soggy Dollar Bar
There are only a few places that you really mustn’t miss on a BVI bareboat. The Soggy Dollar bar in White Bay is one. There is no dinghy dock so you’ll have to beach your dinghy or, better yet, swim to shore with a pocketful of soggy dollars. Legend has it that The Painkiller, this official cocktail of the BVI, was created here, so you beverage choice is simple. This colorful beach bar is not exactly a well-kept secret, so arrive early if you want a mooring or be prepared to anchor. Take a look at their live webcam to see what’s happening right now.
If You Go
Five sailing trips to the BVI have taught me a few things. First, and most important, carefully select your charter company. The array of options, both in charter operators and model of sailing or power yacht, can be intimidating. We’ve rented from a few different charter companies, but the one I can recommend without reservation is The Moorings for their helpful staff and, importantly, a well-equipped base in Tortola’s Road Town Harbour.
Pack Light
No need to bring much with you. A few swim suits, flip flops, shorts, and cover-ups are all you need. It’ll all fit in a canvas carry-on bag that can be easily folded up and stored in a small stateroom closet. You can easily rent snorkeling equipment at the charter base although I do like to bring my own snorkel for, I think, obvious reasons.
Find Your Fit
There are a number of ways to enjoy a sailing charter depending on your skill level and comfort zone. If you are an experienced skipper and like the idea of controlling every aspect of your cruise, you have the option of a bareboat charter in which you select your vessel from the fleet, captain it yourself, and provide all the provisions. If you like the idea of complete autonomy in your cruising itinerary but could use some help with the sailing, your charter company will provide a skipper for any number of days. Or if the cruise sounds dreamy, but you don’t sail, The Mooring offers crewed charters with an accomplished captain and chef to ensure your complete comfort. It’s like visiting a floating B&B. Not sure about your experience level. The kind folks at The Moorings will help you determine what type of boat you’re qualified to skipper. Just fill out this sailing resume and their staff will take from there.
Anticipate A Few Complications
I’m not gonna lie. Getting from Chicago (in our case) to the BVI is not easy. Connecting flights, inconvenient airline schedules, oversold ferries and sketchy taxi services are all part of the adventure. And once you arrive, everything operates on “island time”, which can be infuriating when you’re tired and hungry from traveling all day. All you can do is be flexible and anticipate a few issues. Relax, Mon. You’re on vacation.
It must also be said that even the most experienced sailor sometimes gets a little sea sick. If you are susceptible to motion sickness, or even if you think you’re not, pack Dramamine and any of the other motion sickness remedies you can find. Better to be prepared.
Convinced? If not, just feast your eyes on these photos. Maybe sip a painkiller while you page through this section and you’ll be defenseless against the pull of the islands. Start here. Your adventure awaits.
This article appeared in the Winter 2016 issue of Lakeshore Magazine. Subscribe HERE.
Click the cover image above to read the full issue.
