Beyond the usual tourist destinations, visitors to Chicago and life-long residents alike may experience numerous cultures and traditions in ethnic enclaves throughout the vast city. Vietnamese specialties, European and Mexican baked goods, traditional beverages and all manner of exotic tastes are available to sample if you know where to look. Sounds exciting, but for some of us venturing into the unknown can be intimidating. So let’s get some help.
We caught up with Phyllis Petrilli, an accomplished chef, food industry professional, and proprietor of Chicago Foodways to learn more about the rich diversity of cultures that contribute to the ethnic food scene in Chicago. In the hip North Chicago neighborhood known as Andersonville, Phyllis guides her guests through a multicultural moving feast, all within a few city blocks.
LM: Why did you choose the Andersonville/Argyle neighborhood for your food tour?
Ever since I took a food tour in Boston’s North End, I daydreamed about someday creating my own tour in Chicago. When I moved from Old Town to Andersonville after graduating from culinary school, I realized I had stumbled onto the ideal place to do it. While Andersonville is widely known as a Swedish neighborhood, I was amazed at the diversity of eateries, groceries and bakeries that co-existed with each other in so few blocks. These are not trendy, themed Lettuce-Entertain-You- type restaurants, but family businesses that have been rolling along for 20, 30, even 80 years. And they are still bustling and important to the community today. Then make the short trek from Clark Street to Broadway, and it starts all over again with Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese businesses that also mingle with African and Caribbean markets. I worked at Epcot Center in college and I loved to hang out in the World Showcase after my shifts. Here was my World Showcase, only it’s so much better because it is real. And the people are so much better because they are not Disney cast members but real Chicagoans, no matter where they were born.
LM: What do your tour guests experience?
They join me for a one-and-a-half-mile walk through two neighborhoods that are both listed on the National Register of Historic Places. We make seven stops in various groceries or bakeries to sample the food (and in one case, the drink) they are known for. We talk about the history of the business but also about the history of the neighborhood and how the various ethnic groups came to settle in that part of Chicago. We even stop at a famous but forgotten location once the hotspot of the nation’s silent film industry.
LM: You didn’t start out as a chef and food expert. What path brought you to this profession?
I graduated from Penn State before “yuppie” became a dirty word, and I wanted the corporate, professional career that came with it. I landed it by getting hired by Ford Motor Co. in Detroit, and later transferred to Chicago. I fell in love with the city instantly. I was dazzled by the number of restaurants and the wonderful things you could find in stores like Whole Foods and Treasure Island. Soon I found myself sitting in business meetings and thinking about what new thing I would attempt to make for dinner that night. I was pretty much self-taught by the Joy of Cooking and Cooking Light by the time I decided to go to culinary school. I honed my craft every year by hosting an elaborate Christmas party featuring handmade hors d’ oeuvres made in my tiny, six-square foot, kitchen.
LM: You love to cook and entertain. What are your favorite sources for the best ingredients?
With the expansion of Whole Foods and Mariano’s, I think we are in the golden age of grocery stores in Chicago. That being said, I prefer to shop small and only hit the big guys for what I can’t find elsewhere. For my day-to-day shopping I like to hit Mexican produce markets. They have all the essentials plus heaps of fresh, budget friendly produce. My favorite is Edgewater Produce in Andersonville. Great quality produce, organic eggs, and tortillas from El Milagro that are often still warm to the touch. Since it’s a small place, I’m in and out in less than ten minutes with a week’s worth of groceries.
For dry grains and spices, I go to Middle East Bakery and Grocery at the corner of Foster and Clark. They have this lovely black rice that releases a dark purple starch as it cooks. It’s striking on a plate and has a rich, unique flavor. After a citywide quest, here I finally found pomegranate molasses. In fact, Jim would sell it to me by the case for the restaurant I ran. They make their own pita, and it’s always hot and steamy on the shelf. This place is a wonderland and run by the nicest people.
If I’m making Thai or Vietnamese food, I hit Tai Nam on Broadway for lime leaves, galangal, tamarind and all kinds of basil and mint. Since these cuisines rely so heavily on fresh herbs, you’ll never get the true flavor by using canned goods or more mainstream substitutes.
LM: What are some of your favorite places to eat in Chicago?
Although I love to experiment with world cuisine, I’m still an Italian girl at heart. I used to be reluctant to name a favorite Italian restaurant because each has a unique specialty. Now I have two neighborhood favorites that nail it…food, wine, service, authenticity, atmosphere.
If you’re looking to revive memories of your recent trip to Italy, go to Spacca Napoli on Sunnyside and Ravenswood. Their specialty is real Neapolitan pizza (they import their flour from Naples) but everything they do is on point. Try the minestrone and the Prosciutto e Rucola pizza. If the burrata appetizer is on the menu, don’t hesitate, just do it.
I also love Anteprima in Andersonville. The cuisine is authentic, comforting and ever-changing. I once had a very simply prepared grilled rabbit dish that was out of this world. Their prices are friendly for the quality and quantity of food compared to some “downtown” Italian restaurants. Check them out Monday through Thursday for a three-course fixed-price menu for $29.
My latest find is Cookies and Carnitas in Edgewater. These are meat guys, you can tell. Our trio sampled the tacos made with carnets (pork shoulder), skirt steak and goat (yes, goat). Everything was succulent and well-cooked. Treat yourself to a Kitchen Floor cookie on your way out.
LM: What’s next for Chicago Foodways?
This business started with a daydream and I just keep going. My focus this season will be to build participation and add extra guides to the Argyle/Andersonville tour. I want to expand to other neighborhoods as much for the fun of putting together another tour as for the profit potential. Lincoln Square and Edgewater are on my short list but so many places in this city fascinate me. I’m even entertaining the prospect of doing one-time tours to further flung areas likes Bridgeport and Edison Park.
Join Phyllis for one of her regularly scheduled tours by visiting her website ChicagoFoodways.com to book online. The Andersonville neighborhood is easily accessible by public transportation within the Chicago area. Street parking is available throughout the neighborhood. And be sure to see our Andersonville Guide for more information on this great Chicago neighborhood.
All photos courtesy of Chicago Foodways.
This article appeared in the Spring 2015 issue of Lakeshore Magazine. Subscribe HERE.
